Tokyo-based French designer Julien David made his men’s catwalk debut Wednesday at the Paris menswear shows with a casual but elegant streetwear-inspired collection, as other shows capitalized on color, fabric labels and patterns. Up-and-coming David, who has lived in Japan since 2006 and skateboards to relax, said the collection was all about subtle combinations.

His autumn-winter 2013/14 collection, shown to barely 80 people in the rooms of a labyrinthine apartment in the chic Marais quarter, teamed cropped flannel trousers withfabric labels three-quarter-length coats.Wool jersey leggings also featured heavily with reversible bomber jackets and brightly colored check shirts.Underlining the wearability of the pieces, 34-year-old David had them modeled by “real people” who wandered into his castings.The street vibe continued with Mugler as creative director Nicola Formichetti, best known as Lady Gaga’s stylist, and designer Romain Kremer sent out a uniform-dominated collection “fusing street and ceremony.Slim-fitting but accessible suits alternated with body armor-style tops in acid pink and bright militaristic ensembles that looked more suitable for the crew of a spaceship.

Against a palette of mostly navy, gray and black, and Pierpaolo Piccioli’s collection featured injections of red and green as well as wide strips of leather just above waist level and touches of fur to highlight a lapel or collar.Heat-bonded leather bands crossed traditional raincoats and recurred as mysterious-looking black paneling on mid-thigh overcoats, while some of the black leather coats and suit jackets had a sensual, rubbery quality.

Opening the show, a model in satinfabric labels clutched a black and white striped hat at his side. He marched past in a coat that harked back to the Napoleonic era – through its A-line shape, and long cravate-like collar tied in a knot.With subtlety, 45-year-old Simons thus took the codes of the early 19th century and served them up with a bright and youthful feel for his fall-winter 2013-14 offering.The Belgian designer emphasized necks through large pointed pink, blue and yellow collars – shirts often on top of turtlenecks which ruffled in a dandy style. This mixed imaginatively with strong and wide open collars – that again added the feeling of exuberant layering.